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I became embroiled in a dream-chaser affair when I decided to witness for myself Thi Lor Su waterfall in the lush green forests of Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary in Thailand's northern Tak Province. Said to be Thailand's mightiest waterfall, it is also renowned as one of the world's most beautiful examples of cascading falls. I am told, rather than brave the forest rain for over ten kilometers after a halt-day boat trip on the tributary of the Mae Klong river, or Mae Klong Kee river, it might be worth waiting until the drying effect of wintry winds allows the reopening of laterite roads along the thick forests leading to the wildlife sanctuary. I respond with my usual sweet smile, while preparing myself for the adventure.
The 164 kilometers from Mae Sot on highway 1090 to Umphang presents the first challenge for any visitor, given the more than 80 kilometers of winding and steeply ascending roads through mountain ranges and steep gorges that reach heights exceeding 1,000 meters above sea level. Traveling in these conditions calls for special care. Eventually, after negotiating 1,219 curves, one arrives at the tiny town of Umphang, to be suddenly confronted by those "tales of the forest".
Tu Ka Su Cottage is the chosen operator to arrange board and lodgings and the trip to Thi Lor Suo The appointment time with our guide, and his team, is a little before noon. The start of our cruise on the Mae Klong Kee river, whose tributary begins at Baan Mae Klong Kee in Umphang, is only a short distance away and a large rubber boat is ready to take its passengers on this adventure trip.
Having spent some time enjoying the company of wild birds and the scenic views, I am at once greeted by a most spectacular sight of nature: Thi Lor Jow, or the raining cascades. The steep, limestone cliffs to the left boast a rich assortment of stalagmites and stalactites, while the running brook releases sprays of water that create a watery veil in the midst of the dense forest.
The riverbanks, rocks and stones provide fertile ground for bushes, ferns, mosses and patches of lichen. In fact, the steep cliffs gradually ascend to form a two tiered waterfall, although from the boat only the lower level can be seen. Fortunately, the sun pokes through and reveals the waterfall in a different kind of beauty bathed in afternoon sunshine.
Taken in by the impressive welcome extended by the forest of Umphang, the boat's master rower urges everyone to get on board to enable us to reach our destination before it gets too dark. The sounds of dripping water, waterfalls, flowing brooks and the splashes from paddles and noise of the boat pounding against oncoming waves, form a rhythmic symphony across the river. The riverbanks boast the fascination and abundance of Umphang's forests.
Soon, our boat passes "rainbow waterfall", which, except for being smaller, is equally beautiful. Hence, it is alternately known as "little Thi Lor Jow". Our boat makes another stop at a "hot spring", a small brook of warm water that forms a barrier large enough for one to enjoy a brief dip. Here stands The Tourist Safety Office of Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary.
Nature is being kind; the weather is dry - no rain yet, instead brief intervals of sunshine and a pleasant air that enables us to enjoy a relaxing cruise along the river. In the distance, the calls of wild pheasants and cicada fill the empty river with sound. Unusual and colorful birds, butterflies and dragonflies enjoy their carefree flights. A sizeable turtle perches on a large branch over the water; such an uncommon sight only this large forest can provide.
The cruise offers other interesting sights and experiences: a brief thrill and anxious moments as we pass Ta Ko Bi rapids; the high cliffs of Pha Pheung, once renowned for their many beehives, though only a few remain today; the red cliffs of Pha Luad, marked by a copper bar running several hundred meters across the cliff face; Pha Bong, the high cliff with a sizeable hole at its center; Huai Mow Lu, the river that converges with Mae Klong Kee river and Tha Sai, the landing point where people disembark.
Drizzly rain makes it possible for us to trek through open forest along a trail that is just wide enough for single-file trekking. A while later along this wild trail we arrive at the laterite road, by now a muddy path because of the rain.
Becoming increasingly steeper, the path winds uphill for around three kilometers. It can be rather tiring climbing the steep slope and brief pauses are welcome. Occasionally, this uphill trek calls for a rest as the going becomes extremely tiring, and disheartening, as the trek continues. Only self-motivation drives us to persevere, our packages becoming weightier as we trek along. Yet our local assistants are a long way ahead of us and the guide has to stop and wait for us at various intervals.
Perspiring after the tiring trek, the winding plain ahead offers a welcoming sight. At this point, many stop to admire the beauty and abundance of nature; the songs of wild birds, noisy cicada and jabbering gibbons complement the flora. Occasionally, we feel the warmth of sunshine as it penetrates the thick forest canopy. But this bliss cannot last forever; it's getting late and a long path lay ahead before we reach our destination.
At kilometer 22 we arrive at a point where, from now on, it's a three kilometer trek downhill. Typically, we assume this will be a piece of cake, but it proves to be no less tiring than the stretch we have just covered. Sore feet begin to complain, seemingly close to bursting out of the confines of their shoes. But the pain has to be endured to avoid any slipping or sliding, for this stretch of the route is notoriously rugged with ridges left on the track from recent rain.
The last ounces of remaining energy dissipate as we bravely push through the head-high lalang grass before coming to the edge of the forest and the office of the Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary straight in front of us. Smiles, finally, attach to the faces of everyone in the group; a hint of pride is also obvious. But darkness descends upon the area. This is the first night in Umphang's forest; an early night seems in order to prepare for another long trek on the following day.
Day breaks with a hint of warm sunshine with birds singing overhead. The cool air would easily persuade tired bones to remain in bed had it not been for something even more attractive. Today, we are scheduled to meet the mighty Thi Lor Su face to face. It's just a two kilometer walk away through bamboo and mixed deciduous forests. Signage tells trekkers about the foliage and nature in this vast expanse of forest. And halfway along the signs, the faint sound of the mighty Thi Lor Su can be heard. According to a forest ranger, sounds from Thi Lor Su waterfall reach as far as the Wildlife Sanctuary Office during periods of abundant water, such as now.
What is truly amazing is the sight of water gushing down the 200-300 meter limestone cliffs, over a breadth of 500 meters amidst lush green forest, testifying to the might and awe of nature. The name "Thi Lor Su", or black waterfall, given by the Karen people most fittingly describes this powerful force of nature, whose crashing waters send echoes throughout the forest and jets of water in all directions. It's a pity the dense forest canopy prevents sunlight from penetrating; otherwise it would be possible to see the rainbow crowning Thi Lor Su.
To the left, and facing the waterfall, is the largest section of cascading water, neatly and orderly rushing down the steep cliffs. Those towards the center of the falls and to the right are of similar height but narrower in comparison. The forest ranger tells us that the high water season is yet to arrive yet I still feel grateful for the sights in front of me. The cool water mist is so inviting that many decide to enjoy a quick dip. Soon, rain mixes with jets of water from the falls. The more one watches Thi Lor Su and its surroundings, the more awed one becomes about nature in general, aside from discovering this mighty waterfall.
Echoes of Thi Lor Su resonate in the background as we leave the site. Night falls and I sleep like a baby to a lullaby of driving rain supported by an orchestra of toads, cicada and night birds. ensuring I wake up refreshed on the following morning ready for the trek out of Umphang forest.
After breakfast, we set forth to catch the boat before noon; this amounts to a "playback" of the previous day. The uphill trek over the first three kilometers is as demanding as ever. Luckily, there is no rain this time and the trek takes three hours till we finally arrive at Tha Sai where several rubber boats occupy space over the embankment ready to take their passengers from Thi Lor Suo We walk past another group of newcomers who have just disembarked and will soon start their outward trek. I can see in their faces the expectations I must have had a couple of days before.
From Tha Sai, the boat follows the flowing waters of Mae Klong Kee river for about two hours to the riverbank at Sob Huai Mae Lamung where we catch the bus that will take us to our lodgings at Umphang. Strong currents on the Mae Klong Kee river, probably due to the heavy rain, provide a soothing background that lulls me to sleep until we finally arrive at Sob Huai Mae Lamung where the black waters ul Huai Mae Lamung converge with Huai Mae Klong KeA whose waters are now a brick-red color due to the rain. The sight of a twin-colored river is truly extraordinary. Heavy downpours accompany us on our way back to our lodgings.
The entire city of Umphang is wet with rain, yet it is nice and pleasant. Before our trip back to Bangkok, Doi Hua Mod is another place we intend to visit. Few people who come to Umphang miss this stop because, from the top of this mountain, (a well-known viewing point) one can enjoy the breathtaking and panoramic views of the entire forest, the rolling hills of Thanon Thongchai and the city of Umphang. Predictably, there is no shortage of people waiting at the top of Doi Hua Mod to glimpse the rising sun in a sea of morning mist; or, the calming sight of a twilight sun at dusk. Cycling is another enjoyable activity in this small town, a little Eden in itself.
In addition to the abundance and significance of nature, the forest of Umphang is part of the vast expanse of the west, which comes under a new forest management incorporating six bordering wildlife sanctuaries and 11 national parks covering over 11 million rai (4.4m acres) of land. Together with the vast expanse of forest along the Tanao Sri mountain ranges in neighboring Myanmar, this boasts the largest forest in Southeast Asia.
The car carefully and gradually ascends the rising slope towards the place where we departed at the outset of the trip several days ago. My heart is elated although this is the first journey to my dream destination of Umphang. But I am determined it will not be the last, for the legend of the forest of Umphang is far too overwhelming to be covered in just a few days.
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